This Depression-Era Southern Classic Is the Best Recipe You’ve Never Tried
Surry Ground Steak: North Carolina’s Depression-Era Culinary Treasure
If you find yourself in northwestern North Carolina craving something truly local, try the region’s namesake specialty: Surry Ground Steak. Born during the Depression as a clever way to stretch meat without sacrificing flavor—similar in spirit to the Mississippi Slugburger—this sandwich swaps soy or cornmeal for a flour-based roux that transforms into a rich, barbecue-like paste. Today, it’s more than a meal; it’s a cherished tradition and a point of pride for locals.
And yes—you can make it at home. The method shares techniques with a classic Sloppy Joe or Salisbury steak, but what truly defines a Surry County steak is the tangy North Carolina-style coleslaw, often paired with tomato or a slice of yellow onion.
The Surry County Ground Steak Trail
Food tourism is booming across the South, from Mississippi’s BBQ and Tamale Trails to Texas’s Midland-Odessa Taco Trail. North Carolina has its own unique offering: the Surry County Ground Steak Trail, a digital guide to restaurants serving this regional classic. Each stop features juicy, seasoned ground beef crumbles, tangy coleslaw, and a bright tomato on a hamburger bun.
Surry County also celebrates another regional treat: the Sonker Trail, honoring a dessert resembling a cobbler that’s just as iconic as the ground steak.
While the core ingredients remain the same, preparation varies widely. Food writer Hanna Raskin notes, “The more ground steak I ate, the less I felt I knew about it… every restaurant has its own ideas about proper shape, size, texture, and seasoning.”
A Taste of History
The first Surry Ground Steak is believed to have been served at the Canteen Restaurant in Mount Airy, a small town near the Virginia border. Traditionally, ground beef was browned in a cast-iron skillet, then separated from the grease. Flour was added to the grease to make a roux, which was mixed back into the beef, forming loosely bound patties.
Though Canteen is now closed, its legacy lives on. Former cook Bob Ward explained to the Mount Airy News that while the restaurant often called it “steak and gravy,” locals preferred asking for a “ground steak sandwich,” and the name—and the dish—stuck.
Unlike Salisbury steak or a traditional Steak N’ Gravy, Surry Ground Steak resembles a casual burger or barbecue sandwich, served with toppings on bread in a delightfully messy jumble.
Making Surry Ground Steak at Home
While the dish is best experienced along the Surry County Ground Steak Trail at local diners and barbecue joints, it’s also surprisingly easy to make at home. The key is the coleslaw, which is non-negotiable.
A typical recipe calls for about 2 pounds of ground chuck to ¼ cup of flour, though you can adjust to taste. The beauty of this Depression-era creation is its flexibility—economical, satisfying, and endlessly customizable depending on what’s on hand.
Whether you’re a local or a visitor, Surry Ground Steak offers a taste of North Carolina history—and a delicious excuse to get a little messy with your sandwich.
Ingredients
- Ground beef. Opt for ground chuck beef (80/20) which has a higher fat content. This ensures that the fat renders from the beef, which helps develop the flour-based roux. It also provides a base level of fat for the patty to fry easily.
- Salt, black pepper, and other seasonings to taste. Salt and black pepper are the typical seasonings, but some recipes dress it up with Worcestershire sauce for extra nuttiness and flavor.
- All-purpose flour.
- Hamburger buns, for serving.
- North Carolina-style coleslaw. This is the coleslaw that’s served alongside eastern North Carolina barbecue. It’s tart, crisp, and a little creamy—but not too much. To replicate it, whip up a vinegar coleslaw or a creamy, tangy Southern-style coleslaw that incorporates mustard, celery seeds, mayonnaise, and vinegar.
- Tomato or onion, for serving. Tomato and onion are optional, but you’ll find that they add extra texture—and color—to the otherwise beige-and-brown meat
Directions
- Brown beef. Cook ground beef with salt and pepper in a large cast iron skillet over medium heat to let the fat render slowly. Once the beef is browned—and even slightly crispy—push it to the side of the cast iron skillet, or transfer it with a slotted spoon to a plate to set aside.
- Make roux. Add flour to the grease and cook, stirring often, until bubbling, golden brown, and aroma is nutty and fragrant—this creates a roux. Add more salt and pepper to taste.
- Stir together. Add beef to the roux and stir until incorporated and sizzling. Carefully use a spatula or spoon to form the beef mixture into small patties, if desired.
- Serve. Scoop mixture onto hamburger buns and serve with coleslaw, tomato, and onion.
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